Pittsburgh and Southwestern Pennsylvania - Pittsburgh PA Off the Beaten Path

Preview: Your visit to southwestern Pennsylvania probably begins in Pittsburgh, a city that is right in the middle of the beaten path, a place where you can find unusual opportunities. Downtown Pittsburgh is often called the Golden Triangle, in reference to its location, where the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers form the Ohio (next stop, via the Mississippi: the Gulf of Mexico). So much water, surrounded by high bluffs with lots of trees, reminds some folks of San Francisco, but with a winter. All that’s gold also glitters. Adding to the scenery is the dazzle of downtown architecture, including Philip Johnson’s PPG Place (all glass, of course) and Michael Graves’s O’Reilly Theater. Along the waterfront are architect Rafael Viñoly’s swooping convention center and the contemporary Carnegie Science Center. A hard throw from the business district is PNC Park (named for the PNC Financial Services Group). It’s the prettiest retro ballpark in America, next door to a brand-new pro-football stadium. The downtown bridges are painted gold, and the Steelers (football), Penguins (hockey), and Pirates (baseball) all have black-and-gold color schemes (colors that appear on the Pittsburgh city crest). First, let’s look back. From about 1870 to 1970, Pittsburgh led the nation in producing iron, steel, and glass and in mining bituminous coal. At the same time, Pittsburgh’s environment rotted. Clouds rolled by on skies of black and gray, not blue, and nights sometimes glowed orange. Rivers flowed brown and green. Initial attempts at controlling smoke and floods were hampered by a couple of world wars and by a boom-and-bust economy. In 1941, the year Pittsburgh had the nation’s highest rate of pneumonia, the mayor created a commission to eliminate smoke. Now, after decades of civic improvement, Pittsburgh has overcome its industry-induced pollution. And what a transformation: Utne Reader magazine recently called Pittsburgh “one of America’s most underrated cities.” It’s a place you’ve got to see for yourself. Don’t neglect the Cultural District downtown, home to fabulously restored dowager theaters along Penn Avenue. Around the corner, on the side of the Byham Theater, you’ll find the inside of an old steel mill—in a fabulous giant mural by Robert Haas. Next door is a subtle light sculpture by Robert Wilson, which is installed across the top of a building (look for the pale blue light). When you come to the corner of Eighth and Penn, facing a hulking Aztec-style pyramid, you’ve reached two more public art installations. Temporary ones often join the line-up. They’re as much fun as the theatrical performances. The above description is an excerpt from "Pennsylvania: Off the Beaten Path." Whether you're a visitor or a local looking for something different, this chapter from the Off the Beaten Path series will help you take the "road less traveled" and discover hidden attractions, unique finds, and unusual locales that most tourists miss.
© Copyright Christine O'Toole and Susan Perloff published by Insiders' Guide all rights reserved.


This travel guide comes from:
Pennsylvania Off the Beaten Path Guide Book