Preview: East of Schoodic Point the coast’s character begins to change. You find more shops and restaurants that cater to locals than to travelers. In the harbors lobster boats far outnumber the pleasure craft. Homes are maintained less to impress visitors than to provide sanctuary during the long months of winter. Coastal villages become somewhat more rough-hewn, reflecting a changing ratio of year-round residents to summer folk. Down East Maine begins here in earnest. Heading eastward on Route 1, you’ll pass through the towns of Steuben, Millbridge, Cherryfield, and Harrington. Take time to enjoy the architecture along the way, particularly in Millbridge and Cherryfield, where many of the mansions reflect the boom days of the lumber, shipbuilding, and fishing trades. In Columbia Falls the Ruggles House is open to the public and offers a direct look into the region’s past. This graceful but modest early-nineteenth-century home was constructed for Thomas Ruggles, who moved to town in 1790 aiming to make his fortune in lumber. Ruggles succeeded in his quest and soon became a respected community leader; eventually he was appointed to a judgeship in Machias. In 1818 he commissioned a 22-year-old architect, Aaron S. Sherman, to design his home. The interior has several elements of architectural distinction, including a magnificent flying staircase in the central hallway, “open Bible” keystones above the Palladian arches, and pine doors hand-painted to resemble mahogany. Of particular note is the intricate wood carving throughout the parlor; local lore asserts the carving was executed by a British craftsman who labored three years with a penknife. The home, which was restored from a state of severe dilapidation in 1950, now contains much of Ruggles’s original furniture. One of the Nature Conservancy’s most spectacular Maine holdings is on Great Wass Island, located south of Jonesport and accessible by car via bridge and causeway. This 1,579-acre preserve, acquired in 1978, has more than 500 acres of jack pine—stunted, gnarly trees well suited to the harsh conditions on the island—as well as considerable areas of open heath and bog. Two trails provide access to the eastern shore from a small parking lot. The trails, which twist over rocky and root-covered ground across relatively flat terrain, may be linked together by a hike along the rocky shoreline, making a loop about 5 miles long. Take some time along the ocean’s edge to enjoy the views of the lighthouse on Mistake Island (also a Nature Conservancy holding) and to watch the seals congregating densely on the ledges offshore. Allow about three hours for the entire loop, and be prepared for damp conditions; fog often moves in with little warning. The above description is an excerpt from "Maine: Off the Beaten Path." Whether you're a visitor or a local looking for something different, this chapter from the Off the Beaten Path series will help you take the "road less traveled" and discover hidden attractions, unique finds, and unusual locales that most tourists miss.
© Copyright Wayne Curtis; revised and updated by Tom Seymour published by Insiders' Guide all rights reserved.
This travel guide comes from:
Maine Off the Beaten Path Guide Book